Of all the narratives that make up the foundation of the Hôtel Belles Rives, possibly the best is that of Madame Marianne Estène-Chauvin.
Her memories begin with cherished childhood holidays at this resort owned by her Russian emigré grandfather and French grandmother. The original villa was expanded with two upper floors and a west wing. Lovingly restored, the hotel played a major role throughout her life as each generation of the Estène family carried on their dedication to being hoteliers of distinction.
When she first expressed interest in becoming the owner, she was not taken seriously. “After all, I am a woman. And there are many other roles within the business it was thought would be more suitable. I became involved with decor-ation and public relations… women’s work.”
Perseverance paid off. Ironically, the week she was to take charge, the uncle who would help ease her into her new role, suffered a major heart attack.
Suddenly she was immersed in the business. Soon she had a plan. She changed the seasonal schedule to being open year round, fixed the beach, and began her dream to establish fine dining. The name, La Passagère, evokes not only a passenger on a ship but also a philosophy that we are passengers in time.
I’ve left the Library, originally the Music Room, to the last. Here Madame Estène-Chauvin brought to life intimate stories of the Fitzgerald’s time at Villa Saint-Louis.
In this room, Cole Porter played the piano. Fitzgerald’s wealthy American friend, Gerald Murphy (who along with his wife, Sarah, had first of this group discovered the Riviera) had brought a portable phonograph from the United States, the first one on the coast.
The music of the Jazz Age frequently filled this room. Other musicians would filter in at times. Raucous parties were the norm.
Today the room also displays portraits and trophies of the winners of the literary Prix Fitzgerald. Begun by Madame Chauvin in 2010, the submissions are juried by a distinguished panel of writers and critics. The recipient is an author working in a style or addressing themes that interested Fitzgerald. The prestigious prize is awarded in early June.
On the 50th anniversary of Zelda’s 1948 death, the two Fitzgerald granddaughters were guests at the hotel, when the plaque was mounted in the lobby. They recalled memories their family had passed along through the years. There is an excellent recounting of that visit in this New York Times article.
Madame Chauvin