The Gentleman Magazine Issue 2 | April/May 2017 | Page 93

way that does not harm the animal at all . N . Peal cashmere is both organic and sustainable .
After harvesting the next step is to move the material into the warehouses and sort . Workers remove anything foreign that might cause a problem later in production . Very small contaminants like vegetable matter must be removed during dying and spinning to ensure the cashmere can be washed , spun and knitted without obstruction .
N . Peal colours and dyes are all made specially for their garments . To create the unique blend of Fumo Grey or Shutter Blue for example , the fibre is dyed in separate solid shades and blend in the correct proportions with white to create one solid colour which is the finished product .
Washing is the next step . N . Peal cleans the fibre to remove any natural oils . The raw material is passed through a series of washing bowls , each temperature controlled , which gently removes the dirt as the fibre passes from bowl to bowl .
At the end of the process , the fibre is dried .
After washing , the coarse goat hair is still remaining and needs to be removed . The short hairs is not what is wanted , it is still cashmere , but not what is best quality . A long machine processes the material and leaves behind the beautiful long hairs of cashmere . The result is soft , long and pure white , ready for the next process .
At this stage the cashmere needs to be analysed to ensure quality and strength of the fibre . The two most important aspects are micron , the thickness of the fibre , and length . The micron is important because the finer the fibre , the softer the touch . Length is important because the longer the fibre , the less likely the garment is to pill .
The next step is spinning the cashmere into yarn . One of the great arts of the textile process . There are two stages , the first is carding the fibre and straightening it into a very fine filament . The filament then goes to spinning . The filament is twisted in a particular way to create a very precise yarn count . N . Peal uses mule spinning , a process which has been around for hundreds of years . It takes a long time and is quite costly , but it allows N . Peal to create the precise and even yarn that is the bedrock of N . Peal knitwear .
N . Peal uses the very latest computerized knitting machinery . It gives them the flexibility to create a wide range of textures and patterns to bring the designs to life . N . Peal programs the machines with technical specifications , and then that creates the different panels needed to create one garment .
The panels that have been created by the computerised knitting need to be brought together with linking .
Finishing is what breathes life into the traditional N . Peal garment . Using exact temperatures and exact timings , the garment is washed and steamed . This lifts the fibres and smooths them in a controlled way so that they are ready for wear .
And finally , all items are checked for quality to ensure it meets the exacting N . Peal specifications . It ' s then ready for the customer to appreciate every time it ’ s worn . N . Peal has an entire team dedicated to checking the standard of the linking , the finishing , and most importantly , every single technical measurement to verify the size and the shape is exactly as it should be . It is this constant attention to detail that maintains the N . Peal reputation for the highest quality .
www . npeal . com
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