One glance at these fish, it was both clear where they got their
name (Hydrocynus vittatus have razor sharp interlocking
teeth, hunting in groups in an aggressive, predatorial manner)
and the thought of encountering these terrifying creatures
could nurture the rush I loved most about being outside.
I was skeptical, largely that my fly fishing experience was not
on par, and wondered whether this was further out of my
depth than I thought. But the challenge was what enticed me
in the first place.
Pursuit of The African Tiger
By Kate Fensterstock
It seems I've barely put my head to the pillow when I hear
a kind but firm voice calling "Good Morning" through the
mesh curtains of our chalet. I call out to acknowledge our
wakeup call and reluctantly rub my sleepy eyes. It's 5 am but
as I open the door to try and let any semblance of breeze
come through, there is already a thick haze of heat hanging
over the Zambezi River that runs alongside our campsite.
The notion of escaping the oppressive 40 degree temperature
that is inevitable in Zambia in October is one of the alluring
thoughts that gets me dressed and out the door to breakfast.
In addition, the unkempt landscape, the raw, unapologetic
wilderness refuses to be ignored.
Six months prior, I was a novice fisherwoman at best, almost
entirely encouraged by my close friend and Orvis UK fly
fishing ambassador Marina Gibson. Marina and I did most of
our fishing with Orvis on their prestigious Kimbridge beat on
the Test. It was where we could forget the stress and burden
of city life, leaving smog and crowds far behind. I have always
enjoyed the outdoors: existing in the purest form, embracing
the elements, and succumbing to whatever nature decides
to throw your way. In an age of such technological advances
and the ability to control almost all aspects of our day to day,
switching off to this extent is my personal therapy. I had not
necessarily considered embracing more opportunities to fish,
until Marina told me about a trip she was helping to plan to
the Lower Zambezi River to pursue tigerfish.
With Marina's guidance, I prepared for my trip. Orvis, located
on Lower Regent Street, was not only an excellent resource for
my technical kit, but is the ultimate go-to adventure lifestyle
company. A sea of bush shirts, flannel and outback trilby hats,
I was surprised to not see Indiana Jones or Steve McQueen
browsing the assortment of sheepskin leather jackets. I
headed for the fairweather fishing and lifestyle womenswear,
confident I could work out quite a cool look that borrowed
from the wild West, Australian outback and African bush. I
owned a 5wt fly rod for trout fishing in Hampshire, but these
tigerfish monsters would require something much heavier.
Marina advised I borrow one of the 7wt Helios 2 rods she
was bringing, and equipped with flies from the kind and
knowledgeable chaps at Select-a-Fly, I was as ready as I would
ever be.
The trip consisted of Marina, her similarly-adventurous friend
Lee, the Sudders Family whose 17 year old son Will was a
keen angler, and to my delight my dad, who I have come to
realise is the source of my adventurous spirit and love of the
outdoors. I had the foresight to wear cotton upon arriving
in Lusaka, and the wave of dry, piercing heat was bearable,
if not welcome compared to cold and dreary London. The
restlessness and excitement was already mounting and we
hadn't yet left the airport.
A 30 minute plane ride offered views I had never thought I
could witness. Such a remote destination as ours required
a small aircraft to reach it, soaring over grassland, wooded
forest and rich, oaky red clay that stretched for miles without
a soul in sight. Another short ride in Defenders brought us to
Kasaka River Lodge, where we would stay for 5 solid days of
fly fishing. Greeted by the maternal Dottie, we enjoyed a sweet
and refreshing drink whilst having a welcome brief and safety
instructions. We were warned that elephants regularly walked
through the campsite, and should we witness them, to stay in
our huts until told otherwise. The same was true for Frank,
the resident hippo who enjoyed the company of the Kasaka
visitors. I silently prayed for the chance to witness nature in
such a way, whilst watching my dad's growing concern over
how to tell my mother that their eldest daughter had been
picked off by Frank the Hippo on the banks of the Zambezi.
Kasaka River Lodge is located in the Chiawa Game
Management Area bordering the Lower Zambezi National
Park. A traditional yet comfortable collection of "tented
chalets" offered respite from this heat, although only just. We
would be dining en masse in the main chalet that was open
plan, offering breathtaking views of the Zambezi River, where
waterbuck, elephant, hippos and kudu wandered nonchalently
past us. A sitting area and full bar was open all night if we
chose, although Marina and I would soon realise we were
too exhausted after a day on the river to partake in too many
cocktails.
66 | The Gentleman Magazine