other exotic animals. Chimpanzees are a star
attraction but can remain elusive on strenuous
treks. The experience begins before dawn,
led by a guide, to find the Chimpanzees and
other primates. This is a challenging search as
these primates move quickly and to track them
involves keeping up, through hills and canyons
in muddy and slippery terrain. Sightings aren’t
guaranteed. But for those wishing to explore
the rainforest, this is the best way to do it. I opt
instead for pampering interspersed with more
gentle activity, a rainforest canopy walk and
long nature-rich walking trails.
The ultra-stylish Nyungwe Forest Lodge is the
only plush base near the forest. Set amidst acres
of rippling tea plantations, on the boundary of
Nyungwe National Forest, the property features
all the mod-cons and furnishings, whilst
nestling discretely within natural surroundings. A handful of suites are spaced out amidst
endless expanse of tea plantation. My highlight
is the infinity pool, tucked away between two
villas, and backing entirely onto vast open rainforest. The views are sublime, and this happens
to be an incredible spot to hear monkeys
screeching and to watch African birdlife. The
sounds of the jungle resonate and echo all
around, as nothing fringes the property. I can’t
think of a better way to unwind after long walks
and days spent tracking wildlife.
I spend several days recuperating here in the
fresh cool air, checking into the hillside spa
and enjoying breakfasts with unrivalled scenes
and sounds.
2. Kenya
International hub
Everything happens through Kenya’s capital
Nairobi, an excellent hub for local and
neighbouring country explorations. I fly in and
out of Nairobi for each segment of this trip,
except for the Mozambique to Malawi crossing
on Lake Malawi.
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Catch the capital - Nairobi
Nairobi is an infectious capital. Difficult to
love, yet difficult to leave. It gives me the
same love-hate dilemma as my home city,
London. The pollution, traffic and social issues
can be testing, but it’s also edgy, vibrant and
successful. Nairobi is a haven of plush properties in which to luxuriate and retreat from busy
days sightseeing or working. The legendary
Serena Nairobi is a comfortable distance from
the airport and has one of the best concierges
in town. Serena is synonymous with Africa, and
my ideal choice for local luxury, furnished in a
real pan-African theme. It’s the best alternative
to common international hotel brands where,
once inside, you might forget what country
you’re in. On my short overnight trips and on
longer stays, I choose a Superior Room as it’s
spacious and features lounge area and bathtub.
The property houses one of my favourite
restaurants in the capital, the luxurious fine
dining affair of ‘Mandhari’ (heightened several
times a year when visiting Parisian Michelinchef is in residence), alongside Elemis spa and
poolside Café Maghreb, loaded with heavenly
cakes and coffees. Comfort is paramount and
once here, I can retreat at leisure.
Nairobi serves as a good international hub to
transfer to safari destinations, the most popular
being the Masai Mara. But to miss Nairobi’s
highlights would be a mistake. Spend a day or
two to explore the cultural, wildlife and foodie
highlights the eclectic city offers.
David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage rescues
and rehabilitates wild elephants in need.
Ranging from babies to adults, the elephants in
residence have lost their mothers naturally or
through poaching, been separated in the wild,
been trapped or injured and more from a range
of national parks. These are the lucky ones.
At feeding time, gather around the enclosure
where they come in for large bottles of milk, fed
by rangers. It’s the most heart-warming sight as
the little babies stampede in enthusiastically,
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