scales the heights of Bisoke in
the Volcanoes National Park,
sharing borders with Uganda
and DR Congo. The Silverback
gorilla I’m hoping to meet has
reportedly taken wives from
each country. He’s known
as Agashya, the special one.
We’re being led by a group of
trackers who dedicate their
lives to the forest, tracing
particular families or ‘troops’ of
gorillas. Visions in my mind of
this 230kg human-like creature
propel me forward, up 3-foot
grooves and down 5-foot
plunges, on my backside (the
safest way.) It’s hardly graceful
but then nor are the animals
we’re about to encounter.
After a 2-hour hike, we notice
a rumble in the jungle. My first
sighting of a Silverback mountain gorilla comes unexpectedly. A loud resounding fart
from the head of the group,
Agashya himself, is in my
direction as I’m stood behind
him. Unfortunately, I become
acquainted with his backside
first. Clearly visible is a wave
of silver-grey hair, running the
length of his back, giving him
the title ‘Silverback.’ He’s the
head of the troop. Maintaining
a 7-metre distance, I follow the
guide round to face Agashya.
He glares at me, analysing. As
his eyes meet mine, I’m lulled
into another world. Huge
gentle auburn globes pierce
through my retina as I sense
his curiosity and inquisitiveness. I feel compelled to lower
myself to the ground to show
370
him respect and maintain his
authority. He is a gentle giant.
Surrounding him, a pair of
juvenile males is fighting and
wrestling. Unfolding scenes are
surreal as the giant fur-balls
roll around, put each other in
chokeholds and show incredibly human expressions of pain,
fear and anger.
They come very close and
one grabs my leg as he tries
to escape the other. He has a
powerful grip and our guide
makes a deep ‘eh eh eh’ sound.
Inevitably, we all pick up gorilla
language and, remarkably,
it works! ‘Mum’ spoken in a
full-bodied slow motion also
lets them know of our presence. Deeper into the forest,
a group of females lolls lazily
in the sunshine. Protected by
nature’s embrace and partially
obstructed from view, the
guide finds a natural way for us
to gain a good vantage point,
whilst observing distances for
safety. An astute female takes
the opportunity to play up
to the camera for attention,
before quickly tiring of it and
then ignoring us. In some
shrubbery, I spot a female,
nestling an 8-month-old
baby gorilla on her lap. The
baby takes a short walk on
all 4 limbs; the arms almost
twice the length of the legs.
An electrocuted mess of hair
frames the cutest face. Above,
behind and almost immediately next to me, more waves
of motion within tall grass,
where suddenly a few more roll
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