Popular Culture Review Vol. 8, No. 2, August 1997 | Page 79

Supermarket Ethnicity in Pocatello, Idaho This is what the label says on the back of the Ragu Garden Style Spaghetti sauce in my refrigerator; "Which Ragu Tonight? Try Chunky Garden Style loaded with chunks of select garden vegetables. Or try these other delicious Ragu sauces: Old World Style, Slow-cooked Home style. Thick and Hearty, Fine Italian Brand." So, the makers of Ragu have apparently invested their products with character, richness, quality and even family values. The label also lets us know that this character and richness can be microwaved by removing the plastic cap and heating on high for six minutes. In America today ethnicity is microwaveable and "Old World Style" is essentially a marketing strategy to get us to buy the sauce, eat it quickly, and buy some more. "Ethnic" foods, as presented in the supermarkets, appeal to a romantic fantasy about cultural richness and. integrity. Such foods are really about American culture - they reflect our drive for self transformation, a Madison Avenue-backed desire to visit exotic locations and become more than we already are. The plasticwrapped burritos, spaghetti sauce, falafel mix and Ramen noodles found in supermarkets have surprisingly little do with Mexico, Italy, Egypt, and China--but this is hardly the point of their appeal. In Pocatello, Idaho, where I purchased the spaghetti sauce, few citizens have a significant attachment to an immigrant heritage, and ethnic activity is limited. There is a very small but noticeable Latino and Native American population, a smattering of ethnic culture such as the yearly Greek fair and Africa Night sponsored by students at Idaho State University. And as one would expect in a city of about 50,000 people, there are also a handful of Italian, Mexican and Chinese restaurants that serve fairly Americanized dishes.^ On the whole, ethnicity is not a major part of life here; Pocatellans are apt to refer to themselves as "from Idaho" before claiming a connection to immigrant ancestors. In addition, members of the large Mormon community usually link themselves with a pioneer, rather