Popular Culture Review Vol. 8, No. 2, August 1997 | Page 79
Supermarket Ethnicity in
Pocatello, Idaho
This is what the label says on the back of the Ragu Garden
Style Spaghetti sauce in my refrigerator; "Which Ragu Tonight? Try
Chunky Garden Style loaded with chunks of select garden
vegetables. Or try these other delicious Ragu sauces: Old World
Style, Slow-cooked Home style. Thick and Hearty, Fine Italian
Brand." So, the makers of Ragu have apparently invested their
products with character, richness, quality and even family values.
The label also lets us know that this character and richness can be
microwaved by removing the plastic cap and heating on high for six
minutes. In America today ethnicity is microwaveable and "Old
World Style" is essentially a marketing strategy to get us to buy the
sauce, eat it quickly, and buy some more.
"Ethnic" foods, as presented in the supermarkets, appeal to a
romantic fantasy about cultural richness and. integrity. Such foods are
really about American culture - they reflect our drive for self
transformation, a Madison Avenue-backed desire to visit exotic
locations and become more than we already are. The plasticwrapped burritos, spaghetti sauce, falafel mix and Ramen noodles
found in supermarkets have surprisingly little do with Mexico, Italy,
Egypt, and China--but this is hardly the point of their appeal.
In Pocatello, Idaho, where I purchased the spaghetti sauce,
few citizens have a significant attachment to an immigrant heritage,
and ethnic activity is limited. There is a very small but noticeable
Latino and Native American population, a smattering of ethnic
culture such as the yearly Greek fair and Africa Night sponsored by
students at Idaho State University. And as one would expect in a city
of about 50,000 people, there are also a handful of Italian, Mexican
and Chinese restaurants that serve fairly Americanized dishes.^ On
the whole, ethnicity is not a major part of life here; Pocatellans are
apt to refer to themselves as "from Idaho" before claiming a
connection to immigrant ancestors. In addition, members of the large
Mormon community usually link themselves with a pioneer, rather