Popular Culture Review Vol. 25, No. 1, Winter 2014 | Page 50

46 Popular Culture Review dedicated fans follow individual geisha/geiko and maiko through their daily round of appearances. They also avidly follow collar turning ceremonies when maiko become full-fledged geiko and when geisha/geiko retire from the profession. For collectors, kimono or other attire worn by geisha and maiko are among the most eagerly sought after items on eBay, Etsy or online kimono sites. Hikizuri and susohiki, the long trailing kimono worn by maiko, elaborate obi and other items of geisha attire often sell for hundred or even thousands of dollars. Collectors search eBay and other online kimono vendors and often share beautiful or unusual listings with follow collectors on Facebook, Pintrest and other social media. Inspired by interest in a variety of disciplines including history, religion, and philosophy, traditional Japanese arts such as Ikebana or flower arranging, bonsai, and Chanoyu (the way of tea) have gained both a popular and academic following. The tea ceremony is closely related to many aspects of Japanese culture, including food, art, architecture, calligraphy and even clothing.^^ According to Andrew Cobbing, the tea ceremony or Chanoyu is considered to be the epitome of Japanese taste and is usually based upon an aesthetic of tranquility, harmony, and simplicity. It embodies the pursuit of minimalism, eliminating unnecessary decoration and paring everything down to its most basic form.^® Although not required, many students of Chanoyu will regularly practice in kimono because many of the movements are designed with the motion of the kimono and its sleeves in mind. Kimono sleeves and obi often function like pockets and hold items necessary for the ceremony. A long time student of the Chanoyu explains: Kimono instructs physical movement for both men and women in the temae (procedures). In order to have a good understanding of movement in the tea ceremony, e.g. walking, bowing, picking up objects and moving them to a new location—one should ideally wear kimono regularly during practice, which also means that one should regularly practice wearing kimono (Holly Harvey, Email communication, January 13, 2013). For a formal tea ceremony, both the host and guests wear kimono or formal Western attire. It is appropriate for guests to wear conservative or