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civilization after five days at sea, and we
board a bus to the lush highlands to see
giant tortoises, long-necked behemoths
with gentle, intelligent faces. They wallow
in mud pools and munch on grass, their
immense shells suggesting that many
are over a century old. These tortoises
are the handful that survived after their
populations were decimated from the
1500s onwards, their ancestors harvested
for their meat and oil by pirates, whalers
and buccaneers. At the Charles Darwin
Research Station in Santa Cruz successful
breeding programs are returning increasing
numbers of tortoises to the wild, where
these 700-pound creatures have a crucial
role to play. By dispersing seeds in their
dung, they revitalize important ecological
sites, helping to restore and preserve the
flora of the Galápagos.
As we cruise from one island to another
we’re stunned by the variety of wildlife and
the closeness of our encounters. Sea lions
swim playfully alongside us as we snorkel
near the basalt cliffs. Pelicans and giant
frigate birds hover near our ship, while on
land our walks take us inches from nesting
blue-footed boobies and the unblinking
faces of prehistoric-looking iguanas.
Like the naturalists that lead and educate
us on this journey of natural discovery, we
leave with unforgettable memories and
a sense of responsibility to protect the
integrity of the Galápagos. A week in the
embrace of this exquisite archipelago we
learn that this smattering of islands and
the uniquely adapted birds and animals
that inhabit it are Ecuador’s most priceless
jewel.
W H E N YO U G O
Adventure Life, a company
specializing in travel
in Ecuador, coordinates
itineraries throughout
the country including
Quito city tours, highland
hacienda adventures,
Galápagos Islands cruises
and visits to the jungle.
(800) 344-6118
adventure-life.com