Musée Magazine Issue No. 15 - Place | Page 7

ROME IS... b y An d r é Ac i m a n Rome is color. Ochre by day, by noon blinding white clay hasn’t been aired in ages, the hint of gathering marble, followed by the inevitable decline to saffron and heat on a late October pavement, that whiff of pine dirty blond and, finally, auburn tones that hint of a fourth cologne on the man sweating next to me on the bus, cup of coffee, and then Campari red. By twilight, every- the musty feel of shops that won’t have air conditioning, thing turns dark plum and bruised aubergine, and slate the listless exhalation of chamomile up and down gray cobblestones called sampietrini start gleaming in the our stairwell telling me that sleep doesn’t come easy dark, where by midnight the libido scurries about the here, the sly intrusions of cigarette smoke just about narrow lanes. Not one Roman is not beautiful. everywhere, and that hint of damp wool after it rains Rome is sound. The rattle of scooters threading their way reminding me of my mother. through old Rome, the clang of a hammer going about its Rome is touch. An old wall, still warm after centuries of business while everyone naps undisturbed-because naps just standing there, leaves a film of sunburnt dust on your need noise to spell the silence more. The tinnitus of workers hand to tell you it can still feel things. Everything feels hammering down the sampietrini, one by one, dousing things here. You want to touch—the hood of a car, the their thirst from plastic water bottles which they empty trickle from an ice cream cone, the girl whose hand rests and like to crush in brawny hands. The clatter of dishes so close to yours you’re sure she knows, she knows… and silverware as you walk about Campo Marzio and Rome is taste. The shutters drawn slightly in to keep the hear everyone gathered for lunch upstairs. The splash of sun out, a glass of red wine, pasta with sauce that’s been a fountain at two. The silence on Via dei Coronari at two. stewed for hours, grated parmesan, fizzy water from The shutdown of time at two. Until the clamor of rolling anywhere, and if you’re with someone dear, stop look- shutters being raised and the catcalls of friends having a ing, you’ve come home. smoke on tiny Vicolo Savelli. Rome is memory. Like love, it never dies; it finds others Rome is scent. Narrow hallways where musty dank to love. Rome is love. ©Jeannette Montgomery Barron 2012-2015. 5