Friday 20th May and I arrive in Niagara Falls New
York, it’s still raining. One thing is becoming
apparent, not all the roads in America are straight.
The falls are spectacular, though the location has
become Blackpool on the USA side, and Las Vegas
on the Canadian banks.
The ‘locals’ are really pleased to see and hear about
this crazy Brit’ doing this even more crazy trip.
Already into a thousand miles and the wet weather
is getting me down. The increase in temperature
means the over suit is too hot, and bulky, so getting
damp, dry, wet, dry, damp all within a few hours
becomes the norm. I hate putting on the rain suit. Its
worse when I am wet as the nylon becomes a glue
factory explosion. If I ever get to film this 20 stone
bloke struggling to get a elasticated sticky onesey
on, it will be a viral record breaker.
After a bit of video blog and photo work on the US
side I traverse the bridge to Canada with no trouble
and a new stamp in my passport. Just across the
control there is a tourist office where the helpful
lady directed me to a small private hotel in a row of
200 corporate establishments. I am assured of a
cheap and clean room. At just after 6pm I get my key
to a typical ‘door to the car park’ room which is only
$48 a night and has two king-sized beds. Air-con
and a limited coffee supply. Within 20 minutes I
hear the familiar sound of a Harley engine. Looking
outside the sun is out, the sky is blue and the
temperature has crept to a balmy 78F. As my riding
gear dries on the fence around the outdoor pool, I
get myself fed and watered and spend the evening
on a bar terrace watching a myriad of bikes and old
classic American cars cruise up and down the street.
Friday night is cruise night and locals love their
vehicles.
Manchester, Oshawa is about 130 miles North East, I
know nothing about this outcrop other than it is
near Whitby and is not on my map or my sat nav.
It’s 8 am, 80F and rising, I head for the freeway that
will take me past Toronto, a massive city with a five
lane drivers circus. Hundreds of bikers, boaters and
off roaders heading for somewhere on a Saturday
morning.
The sun is out with vengeance as the temperature
hits 100 degrees by lunchtime and I am at the side
of the road looking for any evidence of the existence
of this Manchester. It turns out to be just a set of
lights, a diner and a gas station. The diner car park
contains six Harley’s, a 1970’s Corvette and an
English bloke on a Goldwing. It’s very hot when I
stop so the cool interior of the diner beckons for
lunch and then back to Niagara Falls and the good ‘ol
USA. 260 miles to have lunch.... ouch.
The second week of my trip sees me heading south
for Pennsylvania where I chance upon a Bike
Blessing with about a thousand bikers being blessed
for this year’s season by an enthusiastic parson with
a bucket of holy water and large tar brush. He too is
a biker, and my comments about him being THE
FASTER PASTOR, are met with a degree of irony.
A ride out and a BBQ until 3pm then despite the
temptation to find accommodation and stay till later,
I add 260 miles to an invitation with an English
family in Maryland. Chris Popple found out about me
on the BBC News website and via Facebook, a roast
beef dinner and Boddingtons beer was enough to
make the extra effort. Next day I get to the Popple’s
home and a both soul and heart lifting visit with
good conversation and company. I managed to do
my laundry and found a good place to leave the
4x3ft Union Jack I had brought. Many thanks to Chris
and family.
Heading south for Deals Gap and the famous
Dragon’s Tail was one of my indulgencies and
fortunately en-route, though Washington DC in the
rush hour, in a rain storm was not too welcome. Six
lanes all doing up to 90 mph with no rules. Inside
lane overtaking, and a definite lack of rear view
mirror use by my fellow travellers, made this section
a heart stopping interlude to the open road.