schools and colleges exist. Iquitos,
with a population of 400,000, can
only be reached by river or air, as
there are no roads connecting it
to the outside. Surrounded in all
directions by forests and a maze of
rivers and streams, it is an oasis in
the midst of the Amazon. The city is
the hub of civilization in the region,
and is also the arrival and departure
point for riverboat trips.
Another time, we met with Maestro
Juan, a wizened and wise shaman,
who shared information about his
eight-year training regimen, which
began at the age of seventeen. He
told us he was born with the “gift”
and that he has the ability to talk
with the spirits of plants after
ingesting a highly hallucinogenic
botanic, which sends him into a deep
trance. He grows his own plants for
medicinal purposes and treats others
who are ill with his portable
“rainforest pharmacy.” At the end
of the session, he offered us each
a blessing for safe travels.
We came across many Ribereños,
or river people, of all ages in their
various watercraft, ranging from
dugout canoes to small motorboats,
as boating is the sole method of
transportation in the region. The
river is life on the Amazon, and all
their original place, as if they were
never disturbed, and the area looks like
a meadow you could walk upon.
Overhanging vegetation with its
dangling vines drip with moisture in
the heavy humidity, while oropendola
birds’ nests appear as earrings for the
trees. This primordial setting makes
you feel as if you’ve wandered into a
scene from “Jurassic Park.”
activities are centered on it. It is
a main source of drinking water
and food, with fishing the dominant
industry and livelihood of the people.
Kids at a young age become very
adept at handling boats, because
they use them as a means to get to
and from school each day. And when
it’s election time, the government
sends in the military to set up
oating booths along the ma on,
ensuring that all people are able
to cast their votes, as voting is
mandatory in Peru.
Fishing for red-bellied piranha was
another unique and entertaining
activity that our group engaged in
during the trip. The technique was
simple: Skewer a piece of raw meat
to a hooked line, thrash the thin
wooden pole in the water to attract
the attention of the piranhas and
then pull up when you feel a tug.
Even I, who have had little to no
fishing experience, was successful
in catching one of these carnivorous
creatures. I didn’t spend much time
admiring my catch; rather, I quickly
handed it over to the boat driver,
trying to avoid the fish s sharp
teeth and violent movements. The
piranha’s ferocious reputation is
most deserved, and many a local
fisherman bears the scars of
carelessness when handling them.
Houses are built on stilts, which is a
necessity in the high water season, as
ood waters annually rise over forty
feet. It was difficult to imagine all the
water we saw disappearing and
becoming rice and watermelon
plantations come December. Naturalists
told us to envision a totally different
landscape in the dry season, where
many of the small passageways we
explored would be nonexistent.
Although I didn’t plan my trip to
coincide with the high season, I’m glad
it worked out that way, as there are a
number of beautiful areas the skiffs
would be unable to navigate in low
water months. Picture breaking trail
with a boat through a mass of densely
compacted water hyacinths that lead
to a pristine lake. Once the boat carves
its path, the hyacinths seal back into
Sunsets in the Amazon are pure
magic. Most of the time, by late
afternoon, we were back on La
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