What a serendipitous occasion it was that my friend and neighbor, Merry Shaimes, just happened to have this awesome dress she designed. Not just one but she quickly outfitted me with two complete 1860’s costumes, one for each act. I was so impressed that I went home and modeled it for my daughter right away. Ruby who is 2 and a half HATED it! He burst into tears “Take that dress off mommy! Take it OFF! with a her high shrieking voice.
Part of me has to agree with her because in fact back then, in 1863, there was so much bloodshed as the native people were being decimated by systematic genocide and the Civil War was winding down. It was the same year President Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclomation.
Most of my close friends know that for me to dress this way is a significant about face. I was raised around traditional Lakota Sioux people. My mother taught me everything there is to know about traditional ways, beadwork, ceremonies, dance and clothing. I have my own Lakota style traditional Elk hide dress.
When I first learned about 1863 it was the Keysville Massacre. I was exploring the legacy of Kern River gold and discovered Keysville. The Keyesville Massacre occurred on April 19, 1863, in Tulare County, now Kern County, California, during the Owens Valley Indian War. White settlers and a detachment of the 2nd California Volunteer Cavalry under Captain Moses A. McLaughlin, killed 35 Tübatulabal and Owens Valley Paiute men, "about ten miles from Keysville , upon the right bank of Kern River".
I have been involved in both Native and White cultures so it seems reasonable for me to study what my ancestors were doing in both worlds. Women’s fashion has changed so much since then that we have lost the meaning and symbolism behind why they dressed the way they did. Now I’ve been inspired to look back and ask those questions.
So it’s 1863, I’m the daughter of a Civil War Colonel turned cattleman. What do I wear?
I discovered American women dressed differently. There are certain things I admire about the pioneer women and I’ll bet that we might all be better off if we allowed more women like them to make decisions in our communities. Women in that time were strong, beautiful, tenacious and survival savvy. They made all their own clothes and primarily used hand woven fabrics. When you think of a southern belle what image comes to mind? Big hoop skirt covered with satin ruffles? Sexy off the shoulder busty neckline? Fancy floral embroidery? The truth is this is an image of a more European style. Only very wealthy women could afford to import shimmering taffeta and silks.
The fabrics made in America were simple durable distinct plaids, solids or tiny floral designs. A trend emerged that expressed the pride and poise of these brave souls.
Tartans or "plaid" originated in Scotland. Weavers typically created a new pattern for each bolt of fabric. Yes, I just happen to have Scottish ancestors so maybe that's why I like it so much. I was suprised to learn people used to be persecuted and even killed by Romans for wearing tartan patterns. Tartans are for titans.