insideSUSSEX Magazine Issue 09 - November 2015 | Page 65

TRAVEL

Basque-ing in BIARRITZ
Nestled on the southwestern tip of France, the stunning city of Biarritz – the last
bastion of the Basque country before the Spanish border (a mere 40 minutes
away) – certainly captures your attention. B Y S A M A N T H A G

Surrounded by areas of outstanding natural
beauty and showcased against its blue Atlantic
shoreline known for its world-class surfing, Biarritz
boasts beautiful buildings, first-class hotels,
designer boutiques and fabulous eateries.
With a reputation for excellence, this
charming resort dates back to the time of
Napoleon III; it was here his wife, Eugenie de
Montijo, built their former villa – now resplendent
in its current incarnation as the Hôtel du Palais.
A Leading Hotel of the World under the Belmond
(formerly Orient Express) umbrella, it is fair to say
my guest and I were very happy to be heading
here following a brief taxi ride from the airport.
The Hôtel du Palais is evidently the jewel
in the crown of this vibrant Basque playground.
Positioned on the headland between two
beaches, the hotel, open to guests since 1893,
commands arguably some of the best views
across the bay and offers an array of simply
breathtaking rooms and suites.
After a warm welcome, we were whisked
to our impressive suite on the third floor, stopping
only to admire the sweeping staircase, beautiful
artwork and designer showcases along the way.
Our suite offered a large sitting area, separate
bedroom and access via three different doors to
a beautiful balcony that ran the length of the
dwelling and offered stunning panoramic ocean
vistas. The timeless opulence of French
architecture and interior design was evident in
every detail and furnishing, while the bedroom
proffered a king-size bed, additional balcony,
dressing area and access to the well-appointed

spacious bathroom complete with bath, rainforest
shower and Hermès toiletries.
Unable to drag ourselves away from the
sound of the lapping waves below, we ventured
out onto the balcony to admire the outside terrace
and pool area. Overlooking the Grand Plage, the
hotel's stylish pool sits aside the ocean and
includes an ample sunbathing deck, private
cabanas and access to the cocktail bar and lunch
restaurant. Meanwhile, the equally beautiful terrace
affords ocean and pool views with the option to
relax under a canopy in the shade during the
warm afternoons. It was here we headed, before
retiring inside to the stunning La Rotonde
restaurant for dinner.
Described as being one of the most magical
places to feast, the dining room offers floor-toceiling windows that enable amazing panoramic
views of the ocean and wonderful sunsets.
As expected, the service here was second
to none. My guest and I happily devoured our
perfectly constructed starters and divine main
courses of fresh pollock and fillet of beef with
local asparagus. Our delectable desserts of
panacotta and stewed rhubarb with strawberry
sorbet and gold leaf were washed down with
suggestion after suggestion of glorious
accompanying wine (French, naturally).
After being lulled into a wonderful night’s
sleep by the Atlantic waves, I could not wait to
sample the hotel’s other award-winning feature,
the Imperial Spa. This peaceful haven is devoted
to wellbeing, and combines Guerlain treatments
and products. My massage was superb, and it

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was refreshing to relax to the sound of real waves,
rather than relying on piped ‘musak’ to set off
an experience.
Later that evening my guest and I ventured
out of the hotel, and were excited to dine at
Restaurant Le SEn'S in the local town. Owned
by ex-pat Emily and her French chef husband
Sebastian, this eatery really is a hidden gem. The
empty 20-cover restaurant was soon full with
diners who evidently had to book ahead, as other
eager customers were politely turned away. The
small, but perfectly executed menu capitalised
on using fresh local produce with an à la carte
finesse, delivering course after course of
remarkable flavours. Our favourites included the
apple dessert consisting of poached, pan-fried
and raw apples with caramel, and the
deconstructed tarte au citron.
Full and content after a wonderful evening,
my guest and I embarked on a relaxing walk
back through the town, meandering along to the
tempting smells of the local boloungeries and
restaurants. As locals and visitors filled the vibrant
kerb-side bars and bistros, we absorbed every
last moment of the Basque atmosphere, safe in
the knowledge that we would indeed return to
this magnificent place once more.
Hôtel du Palais
Biarritz
France
www.hotel-du-palais.com
@belmond