LONDON
Laid back Australian charm in a sophisticated London setting ? It can only be
DICKIE FITZ
IT FELT A LITTLE LIKE HEADING INTO THE UNKNOWN AS I VENTURED JUST NORTH OF OXFORD STREET TO TRENDY FITZROVIA ( HENCE THE FITZ ) IN THE HEART OF LONDON ’ S WEST END , AND I HAVE TO SAY I WAS MORE THAN A LITTLE IMPRESSED AS I OPENED THE SLEEK DOORS TO DICKIE FITZ , THE FOURTH OFFERING BY LONDON RESTAURATEURS AFFINITY GROUP LOCATED COMMANDINGLY ON THE CORNER OF NEWMAN AND GOODGE STREETS . BY SAMANTHA READY
I walked into a light , bright dining room , beautiful art deco windows , white walls , sleek tables with pale grey bucket seats and long mustard colour benches , and a contemporary bar with high mustard stools all set off by the most captivating chandelier lighting . Australian influenced ? Yes . Sophisticated ? Without doubt . Yet the best bit is that this really is an all-day dining room – perfect , in fact , for the all-day menu inspired by the fresh flavours and ingredients of the Pacific , carefully crafted by Sydney-born head chef Matt Robinson .
Relaxed breakfast by the window : check . Working lunches with colleagues : check . Intimate table for two : check . Perfect cocktail drinking at the bar : check , check , check .
Taking a pew on a bench at a table for two , my guest was easily tempted by the cocktail menu , our resulting Dark N Stormy ( Bundaberg Red , ginger beer and Gosling Rum ) and She ’ ll Be Apples ( Eucalyptus Finlandia Vodka , apple juice and lime juice ) were an ideal accompaniment to our menu browsing .
First up my guest opted for the Tempura soft shell crab , nam jim and coconut and was presented with a great textured dish . The tempura was melt in the mouth and the delicate coconut was tropical taste bud heaven . I opted for the truffle macancini – a dish which falls under the
‘ looks can be deceiving ’ title . The tiny blackened balls arrived and my taste buds were prepared for , well frankly , a burnt uninspired beginning , but in fact they were a delicious concoction of pasta , cheese and truffle and were promptly devoured .
Next up we had evidently been swayed by the Aussie ability to grill , opting for the Aussie burger and the Australian sirloin . My guest ’ s burger arrived as a heaving mound of beef , cheese , salad and relish in a brioche bun with a bucket of crisp fries ; and my sirloin , cooked perfectly medium to my liking , came with a heady rich bone marrow butter and more of those tasty fries .
Feeling rather full we were persuaded ( it didn ’ t take much ) to have a sweet ending , lured by the promise of a fine Australian dessert , and once again we were not disappointed by the huge pavlova that graced our table . The crisp , swirled meringue shell gave way to an inner sticky meringue , raspberry and strawberry sorbets and fresh lemon curd ; it was sweet , sticky , sharp and fresh all at once . With the last ounce of room my guest was tempted one
last time by Mrs Robinson ’ s Lamington , a perfectly cooked square of sponge , coconut temptation .
And with that we were done , and actually really hesitant to leave the comfort and stylishness of the dining room .
Matt Robinson has not only managed to create a mouthwatering array of dishes but has been able to do so in a way that showcases sophisticated , contemporary and refined Australian cuisine .
It takes a brave man to feature his mother ’ s Lamington recipe on the menu ; it seems he ’ s done her more than proud .
Dickie Fitz 48 Newman Street London W1T 1QQ 0203 667 1445 www . dickiefitz . co . uk
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