insideKENT Magazine Issue 51 - June 2016 | Page 130

OUTDOORLIVING YOUR GARDEN: june SUMMER ARRIVES 21st June is the longest day of the year, and the extra light and warmth encourages the garden to put on an exuberant burst of growth. But this extra light and warmth also means weeds will sprout up from seemingly nowhere. Keep on top of them by hoeing regularly in dry conditions. TOP 10 JOBS THIS MONTH 1. Hoe borders regularly to keep down weeds 2. Be water-wise, especially in drought-affected areas 3. Pinch out sideshoots in tomatoes 4. Harvest lettuce, radish, other salads and early potatoes 5. Position summer hanging baskets and containers outside 6. Mow lawns at least once a week 7. Plant out summer bedding 8. Stake tall or floppy plants 9. Prune many spring-flowering shrubs 10. Shad greenhouses to keep them cool and prevent scorch TOP TIPS Flowers Plant out summer bedding and seed-raised plants, if not already done so. Make sure they are well watered in and keep moist during dry weather. Plant out cannas and dahlias once danger of frost has passed. Gaps in herbaceous borders are best filled with annual bedding at this stage in the season. One exception is anemones (e.g. Anemone coronaria), which take about three months to flower after planting. The rhizomes are best planted now, after an overnight soaking, 5cm (2in) deep in a suitably moist but free-draining soil or compost with lots of added leaf mould or organic matter. Perennials such as hollyhock, delphiniums (D. 'Fenella', left) and lupins can be sown directly into drills outside once the seed heads have ripened and started to split naturally. If garden space is limited you can sow them into pots and place them in a cold frame or by the base of a sheltered wall in filtered sunlight. Thin out direct sowings of hardy annuals. This is best done in two or three stages at fortnightly intervals. Final spacings should be between 1020cm (4-8in), using the upper limit for tall or spreading plants, and the lower limit for smaller plants. Hoe borders to prevent annual and perennial weeds from spreading and seeding themselves. Tackle bindweed when it appears in a border. Lift clumps of forget-me-not once the display wanes, and before too many seeds are released – they can become invasive if left unchecked. Stake tall perennials to prevent wind damage to flower spikes. Sweet peas need training and tying in to their supports to encourage them to climb and make a good display. Liquid feed containerised plants every two to four weeks. Keep tubs, hanging baskets and alpine troughs well watered. Use collected rainwater, or recycled grey water wherever possible. 130 Lawns Regularly mow lawns to keep them in shape removing 'little and often' is the key to a good quality sward. Continue cutting lawn edges with a half-moon edging iron to ensure they are neat. Mow pathways through areas of long grass to allow access to other areas of the garden (left). Add grass clippings to the compost heap in thin layers (too much grass all at once is likely to be very wet and poorly aerated, resulting in smelly slime rather than compost). Apply a high nitrogen summer lawn fertiliser if not done last month to encourage a healthylooking lawn - always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, as any over-use or runoff can cause water pollution. Move garden furniture and other objects regularly to allow grass to recover and prevent yellow patches. Ensure new lawns (either from turf or seed) do not dry out during hot weather, as turves will shrink if allowed to dry out, and fail to knit together. During periods of prolonged dry weather, you could help by keeping your lawn a little longer than usual, and even investing in a mulching mower. Mulching mowers shred the grass clippings very finely and then blow them into the lower layers of the turf, where they act like mulch to help the lawn retain moisture. Because the