FOOD+DRINK
ROCKSALT
BY GEMMA DUNN
Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside
CANTILEVERED OVER THE HEART OF FOLKESTONE'S WORKING HARBOUR, ROCKSALT OFFERS A WINNING FORMULA OF UNMATCHED VIEWS, EXCEPTIONAL FOOD AND FANTASTIC SERVICE. IN WHAT WAS MARK SARGEANT'S FIRST SOLO VENTURE AFTER LEAVING THE GORDON RAMSAY EMPIRE, THIS MUCH-HYPED EATERY HAS ACHIEVED RESOUNDING SUCCESS SINCE ITS OPENING IN 2011, HAVING BEEN AWARDED TWO AA ROSETTES AND BESTOWED WITH SUCH TITLES AS DINERS' CHOICE AND MOST BOOKED BY FINE-DINING PIONEER, TOPTABLE. BUT PERHAPS MORE SO, ROCKSALT HAS ESTABLISHED ITSELF AS AN INTEGRAL COG IN THE COASTAL TOWN OF FOLKESTONE, CARVING A DESERVED PLACE IN BOTH ITS CULINARY GUIDE AND NOW ADMIRABLY, ITS HERITAGE.
Considered one of the staple restaurants outside of the capital, and most certainly in Kent, it is fair to say when I heard a summer trip to Rocksalt was on the cards, I was more than happy to oblige. Better still, we had been invited to stay in one of the four bijou rooms that make up part of the Rocksalt trinity. Aside from the restaurant and rooms, Sargeant invested in the seafront folklore that is ?sh and chips and opened The Smokehouse, an authentic harbourside chippy. Bags dropped off, we tottered over the cobbles to the restaurant, just a stone's throw from the fantastic four-star bolthole rooms. Having been lucky enough to enjoy this experience on one of July's hottest days, and with no driving involved, we had left enough time to indulge ?rst in a couple of Rocksalt's bespoke cocktails in the top ?oor bar. And indulge we did. My wild strawberry Prosecco-based concoction was as wonderful as it sounds and an ideal start to the evening. Sat amongst others simply enjoying a tipple on the suntrap terrace or like me, an aperitif, the white tables and large scallop chairs offered a relaxing haven at which to admire the panoramic sea views across the channel, and on a good day, France. Once downstairs in the airy ground-?oor dining room, the scene was by no means inferior. Seated directly beside the ?oor-to-ceiling glass windows, our sitting boasted unrivalled harbour views, accentuated further by a bluelit harbour wall after dusk. However, this picture was by no means reserved for us, as Rocksalt's tables are positioned in such a way that each can enjoy the fantastic stretching views as much as the last. Seating is also available on the restaurant terrace when the weather permits. Voted the overall winner of the prestigious Kent Design and Development Awards in 2012, Rocksalt's architect Guy Hollaway cites the sea as his biggest in?uence in its design. The glass and mirrored interior showcases
lime washed oak ?ooring, dark timber tables and green leather banquettes, exhibiting a simple, yet elegant décor. Now sitting pretty, my guest and I picked from the impressive à la carte menu, opting for the restaurant's homemade taramasalata and Yorkshire pudding with roast new season garlic from their starter selection. Wonderful pre-dinner appetisers, the ?avours in the taverna-inspired pink taramasalata were well balanced and the texture, smooth and creamy. The subtle smokiness made for a moreish dish, ideal combined with crusty soft white bread. Meanwhile, the Yorkshire pudding entrée injected a traditional feel into proceedings, enhanced by an incredible garlic oil-based dip. Pressed chicken was to follow; a cold recipe that comprised of a smooth chicken terrine, served with leek, a spattering of crunchy radish and a homemade garlic mayonnaise. Whilst it encompassed classic elements, the dish gave a clear nod to modern dining, making for a delightful opening course. Rocksalt's highly commended sea-fresh options were next on my to-eat list. Caught locally wherever possible by Folkestone Trawlers Ltd on day boats and from the South East coastline, there is no denying the offerings are fresh. Each day the restaurant celebrates their local ?nd with a 'catch of the day', on this occasion was the prized turbot. There is also a shell?sh and Sonny's smoked ?sh division, under which ?sh dishes are smoked by the eatery's own smokery. I opted for pan-fried lemon sole from the ?shmonger's selection. A delicate sweet-tasting ?sh, the white ?esh ????????????? ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????((??()??????????????????????((0