insideKENT Magazine Issue 19 - July/Aug 2013 | Page 75

Thursday Supper Club AT The Swan AT CHAPEL DOWN FOOD+DRINK WHEN insideKENT FIRST HEARD THAT THE SWAN AT CHAPEL DOWN WERE LAUNCHING THEIR VERSION OF THE ACCLAIMED SUPPER CLUB DINING EXPERIENCE BACK IN MARCH, THERE WERE ONLY TWO QUESTIONS ON OUR MIND’S: HOW DOES THE CONCEPT WORK AND WHEN CAN WE GO? LUCKILY FOR US, THE LATTER WAS SOON ANSWERED AND WE WERE BOOKED UP TO ATTEND THE SECOND EPISODE IN THIS MONTHLY CULINARY AFFAIR, AND WHAT AN AFFAIR IT WAS. BY GEMMA DUNN Having parked up adjacent to the Kentish splendour that is Chapel Down Winery on what was unquestionably the most beautiful summer evening, it is fair to say we already felt in good company — a vision bettered only by the striking, elevated panoramic view of the Chapel Down vineyards from the restaurant's terrace. Once seated and settled, our table listened intently as the restaurant manager clarified exactly how the supper club model works. He explained that head chef José Manuel Azevedo had spent Upon discussion, we were in agreement that the idea of an unspecified food menu would only add to our anticipation, making the process of going for dinner a more intriguing one. One decision we did make was our choice of dinner drinks, opting for the outstanding Bacchus Reserve wine — an award-winning tipple from Chapel Down's Vineyard. Food wise, first up was a delightful prestarter of lobster and crab soup; pure indulgence in a tea cup. Thick and rich in taste, the lobster and crab mixed with a sprig of coriander was flavoursome — whilst not overbearing — doing justice to this luxurious potage. Freshly baked olive tapenade bread was also served as an appetiser. Next, a decadent starter comprising of three superior fillets of brill with a distinctive blood orange syrup. Firm in texture, the flatfish was sweet tasting, enhanced further by the intensity of the citric blood orange and staple coriander. In addition, the pickled carrot and cucumber made for a deliciously sour, crunchy garnish. Two dishes down and we were embracing the unknown and somewhat enjoying the fact that we were receiving only basic explanations around each dish, causing us to make our own observations and conclusions. The main was a huge success amongst a table of fish fans; this time skate was the dish of choice, served with a caper dressing, pea purée and chunky polenta chips. The pearly white skate wing was cooked to perfection, lean, delicate and sweet, with a more than ample section of fresh fish meat each side, while the French capers lent a salty flavour to the proceedings. To accompany, the corn-based polenta chips were wonderfully tasty, crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside, providing the perfect alternative for those looking for a potato-free plate. For the remainder, sprouting broccoli and browned new potatoes were served up to share. A palatable selection of puddings concluded what had been a fantastic feast. The first, a traditional, indulgent rhubarb crumble and fresh custard, followed by a bitter chocolate-covered ice cream bombe. The aroma from the tangy passion fruit parfait that accompanied the latter was delectable; the ideal summer dessert. Having now experienced a full sitting based purely on José's creations, I think we were all in agreement that The Swan have nailed this concept, establishing a working ideal beyond the London crowd. The customers’ freedom to pay may have at first seemed slightly liberal, but having visited, it shows a complete and deserved faith in the talent of the culinary team. Typically those who want to invest in this experience, are likely to be willing to reward and merit it. Project manager at The Swan, Rebecca Sarginson, believes in the concept wholeheartedly, stating, "It’s about being proud of what we provide. It’s a risk but it’s about a little bit of fun, and having confidence in what we think we can deliver.” Implementing a supper club theory means the chef regains a sense of power. It allows them to be more creative and hands-on, unrestricted by customer choice. From a diners perspective, the fact you have little — if any — voice in your meal content, means that you are more experimental than you would be and often you end up trying foods you claim to dislike or perhaps have never tried. A truly liberating experience that I would recommend to all. The Swan at Chapel Down's upcoming supper clubs will be held on 25th July and 22th August. Book your table now to avoid disappointment! Swan English Restaurant Chapel Down Winery Small Hythe Road Tenterden TN30 7NG [email protected] 01580 761616 www.loveswan.co.uk his morning on a fishing boat in Rye, quite literally catching the main ingredients for the night's menu. It then fell to us to highlight any of his findings that didn't take our fancy or forever hold our peace. Refreshingly the team were unfazed by any requests and dislikes, willing by all means to alter servings to fit individual customer requirements. With declarations made, José and his talented kitchen team then used their expertise to concoct an exclusive, personalised threecourse menu for our sitting. The main aim for this theory being, each customer receives a truly unique dining experience that is intended to heighten the senses. In a further twist, the customers pay for the wine, but when it comes to the food, they have the freedom to pay only what they think their meal is worth. Each month José and the team will repeat this process, sourcing ingredients from local markets to butchers and fishmongers — with the common denominator, to champion local food and suppliers. www.insidekentmagazine.co.uk 75