>>>REALLOCALS>>>
101 Days of
surfing... An
unusual obsession
February this year
I found myself with
30 days off work so I
decided to set myself a
little goal.... to surf daily for
the 30 days.
Well...after the 30 days of daily surfing, I
felt invigorated and committed myself to
attempting 101 days. I’ve certainly set no
records as I’m aware of people who have
gone a year or more without missing a day,
but, from a personal perspective, the benefits
were far more than I imagined back on day
one.
After 30 days I noticed that my ‘love handles’
had vanished and I actually possessed
abdominal muscles. My strength and energy
levels increased and friends claim that I
seem more relaxed and focused.one way or
another.
After 101 days I feel a sense of accomplishment
and desire to make every day fruitful. So if you
have been one of those locals wondering
what on earth that weird guy is doing in the
ocean when the waves were too rough or it
was pre-dawn, it was just me trying to take
ownership of my health and fitness.
P.S. I’m 55 yrs old.
What motivated you?
Nothing at first, but as the days accumulated, I
didn’t want to give up on my goal. I did boast
just a little at work and it got to the point where
my colleagues wouldn’t say hello, they’d just
say “what day are we up to?”
And your health improved?
Well, I don’t really have any health problems,
but the daily ‘salt water sanity’ has been
beneficial to my mental health, general
conditioning, flexibility, balance, co-ordination,
motivation and cardio vascular fitness. Plus, I
got a tan :)
You are a 12 Hr a day shift worker. How did you
surf during a 7a.m. to 7p.m. shift?
I set the alarm for 5:15, into the ocean at 5:30,
out at 6:10 into the car at 6:30 and at work by
7:00. By the way, I had more energy on those
days due to my morning surf. Some mornings
I walked to Fingal Beach in the dark waiting for
the sunrise and giving myself a list of excuses why I
should go back to bed, but it was worth it.
Did you actually catch waves EVERY day?
Thankfully I have a 9’ long board so you can
catch a ripple if you need to. Yes, I was blessed
with reasonable sized waves for the 101 days
and YES I caught a minimum of 3 waves daily!!
Any Highlights?
Sharing a wave with dolphins was fun. I think
that the opportunity to get out, clear my mind
and do something positive was an overall
highlight. I remember one day I called in sick as
I couldn’t go to work due to flu type symptoms. I
felt guilty but had a surf regardless (don’t tell my
boss). Ironically, after my session in the ocean,
my symptoms lifted and a well enough to go to
work...but, I didn’t!
Any Downs?
Sometimes whilst wading into cold water early
in the morning without a wetsuit...and when the
cold water reached my thermometer (if you
know what I mean) ...bit of a chilling experience!
Did you consider going for 365 days?
1 considered it, but I was planning to fly to
Mount Isa and the surf is very average there!
Where did you surf?
Mainly Fingal main beach but, depending on
circumstances, ventured to Byron’s shipwreck,
Cabarita, Kingscliff and Rainbow Bay. It was
quite an adventure.
Best and Worst Wave?
Best... At the causeway. It was clean, glassy,
strong and I stepped off onto dry land (almost).
Worst... At Rainbow Bay. Wave was ok but I had
to share it with about 15 grommets.
And your surfing skills?
As I tell my children. I have never fallen off a
surfboard. I have ‘uncontrolled step-offs’.
Next Project?
Not sure. I’m currently doing something a
little less selfish and looking into a project
possibility regarding “men’s needs” in the local
community. Any ideas or feedback gratefully
accepted. Greg Stanyer
www.coffeeshop.goss.com.au > POTTSVILLE TO FINGAL > OCTOBER 2014
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