Ciao 2017 issues FebMar 2017 | Page 34

ciao ! reviews
JOIN US FOR THE

ULTIMATE STEAK

EXPERIENCE

At the Sandman Hotel 1750 Sargent Avenue 204 788 2015
chop . ca
WALK-IN GUESTS ALWAYS WELCOME
Open weekdays from 11am until late
but the star of the menu is the prime rib . An absolutely buttery pink slab of the prime cut lies under a puff Yorkshire pudding that tops it off like the doff of a chef ' s hat .
Hinting at the city ' s cultural heritage , suggestions of Greek influence are sprinkled throughout the menu , from roasted potatoes perked with lemon to several iterations of lamb .
Lighter eats are on hand as well . A large portion of Cajun-spiced red snapper is fork tender , rubbed with a peppery blend of spices that zings with chile burn .
While Bailey ' s bucks trends in favour of the tried and true , what results might just be a novelty in itself : perfectly and consistently prepared classics in a welcoming , opulent setting .
Bailey ' s is open Mon-Fri 11 am-1 am , Sat 12 pm-1 am , and Sun 4:30 pm-9 pm .
FUSION GRILL Neighbourhood ..... Academy Address ..... 550 Academy Rd Phone ........ 204-489-6963 Entrées ........... $ 25- $ 46
Fusion Grill has been cutting the path for the Manitoba Regional Cuisine movement since opening in 1996 . Alongside Ciao ! and a host of other passionate restaurants and chefs , owner Scott McTaggert and his team made it their mission to work with local suppliers and get diners excited about eating food grown right here in our own province .
20 years later , Fusion Grill and chef Lorna Murdoch are still pushing the envelope . In a time when “ local ” is a buzzword and beets are as common as French fries on restaurant menus , it remains on the leading edge of pioneering prairie cooking , picking up underused ingredients , sourcing seasonally , and partnering with many small farms and suppliers based within Manitoba .
Grass-fed beef , for example , is sourced locally by the cow , with cuts announced nightly as the kitchen works through the animal . Pike from Lake Kisseynew unites with greens from East Selkirk ( Braman ’ s ), all married under a surprisingly spicekicked curry crust .
The local ethos is evident even on the walls of the inviting 41-seat room , on which hang local artists ’ renderings of prairie scenery , awash in sunlight and puffy clouds .
Despite the longevity of the restaurant ’ s commitment , the menu continues to evolve not only with new ingredients , but modern flavour profiles and cooking techniques .
The changing vegan entrée , for example , is given thoughtful attention . Tender black bean cakes are layered with a buttery avocado emulsion and a salsa that unexpectedly incorporates fiddleheads . The tower is set in a pool of slightly sweet strawberry port sauce , with a tart edge giving way to an almost chocolatey richness .
The hyper-local ingredient list does nothing to limit the menu ' s range . The tour of flavours laid out here spans the globe .
A row of miniature samosas is a palate-perking appetizer , incorporating wild rice and beluga lentils . Slavic-style ryazenka yogurt made by local producer Dairy Fairy is a rich accompaniment , adding a pleasantly cool , sour note .
In a Canadian twist on traditional paella , Northern Pike stands in for the fruits of the Mediterranean Sea , and a ring of PEI mussels enshrine the plate . The fragrant mélange of rice , vegetables , and spicy sausage hits with a rich saffron-laced punch .
32 ciao ! / feb / mar / two thousand seventeen