Modern Athlete Magazine Issue 55, February 2014 | Page 18
My Story
Running Through
The raucous band at the finish welcomed all the 10km runners in.
A small Turkish town with a beautiful lakeside setting
and an intriguing history makes for a marvellous
running experience, as Derek Luyt discovered
when he took part in the Iznik Ultra with partner
Debbie Bruinders.
W
e arrived in Iznik on an overcast Saturday afternoon, reeking
of the scented hand-cleaner that Turkish minibus crews dispense to
all passengers. We had not planned to run here – we only learnt of
the race after making our travel arrangements – but for runners who
travel, costly changes to flights and hotel bookings are a small price to
pay to race through one of the world’s most historic towns. Iznik was
originally known as Nicea, and was renamed when it was captured by the
Muslim Seljuks in 1075. As Nicea, Iznik was an important centre of the
Christian Byzantine Empire, and was described as the third Holy City of
Christendom after Jerusalem and Rome. Iznik was also the capital of the
young Ottoman Empire, and produced the world’s most coveted ceramics
during the 16th and 17th centuries.
Images: Derek Luyt
And so we arrived as participants in the two-day festival of running
comprising four events, three starting together: The 130km Iznik Ultra
run around the beautiful lake, the 80km Orhangazi Ultra halfway around
the lake, and the tough 42km Mountain Marathon, which climbs over a
thousand metres. For lesser runners like me, there is a 10km run through
the town, held the following day.
Early the next morning, I headed to the town centre where the longer
events start and finish. Only the four race helpers were there to watch
as a lone runner emerged from the dawn mist. A smile flitted briefly
over her weathered face as she crossed the finish line, then she
disappeared... a most understated ending for someone who had just
spent 23 hours running 130km. But then this was Bakiye Duran, Turkey’s
female ultra pioneer, whose recently published biography is aptly entitled
Courage is Solitary.
NOISY START
Later, when Debbie and I wandered up to
the start of the 10km, the town centre
was thumping and a joyfully raucous
marching band threaded through
the milling spectators. It came
to a halt behind the field of
nearly 300 runners from
17 nations waiting to
begin. Above the
18
ISSUE 55 FEBRUARY 2014 / www.modernathlete.co.za
Sunset over Iznik Lake.
buzzing din, a chanted countdown began,
indicating the seconds: “iki… bir… sıfır!”…
and the stampede began! We started near
the back, as we always do, and Debbie
soon allowed me to drift ahead. A woman
looking like an advert from a running
magazine gear section kept pace in my
vicinity, and she glanced so frequently at
the large contraption on her wrist that she
failed to notice the huge banner warning
of the steps leading down past the 14th
century Green Mosque. Narrowly averting
disaster and recovering her stride with
great aplomb, she consulted her wrist
contraption less frequently as we ran past
the Iznik Archaeological Museum.
SA’s
Debbie
Bruinders
winning
her age
category.
In the side streets, local farmers waited patiently astride their muddy
tractors for the runners to pass. I suspect they were enjoying the distinctly
un-Turkish spectacle of semi-naked people running in public. Cutting
through the town walls at the Yenisehir Gate, a short stretch of gravel
road brought us to the lakefront road leading to the turnaround near the
halfway mark. We passed the palace of Constantine the Great, where the
Nicene Creed, core of the most widely shared Christian orthodoxy, was
drawn up in 325 AD, and when I swung round the turn, I saw Debbie was
not too far behind, looking good (as always).
NOISIER FINISH
We headed back down the lakefront, took a final left turn past the
deserted gardens of the Talya Café, and cruised comfortably up a gentle
tree-lined incline to the finish in the centre of town. The marching band
formed a guard of honour for the runners and the crowd completed the
carnival atmosphere. Although the band greeted all female finishers with
heightened gusto, Debbie received a particularly ear-shattering welcome.
Only later did we understand the reason for this: She had finished first in
her age category.
At noon we joined the fun of the marvellously colourful prize-giving,
including a stirring performance of sword and shield dancing. Back at our
hotel the manager was standing at the front door. “Number One!” he said,
greeting Debbie with a cheerful smile. Later, at the restau