Patrick Kriss
Alo
Frank Parhizgar
Frank’s Kitchen
“It’s all for the guests,” chef Patrick Kriss says as he describes the modern
dining experience at Alo. The restaurant’s name comes from the
Latin phrase alui Altum—to nourish, cherish, support, and to keep.
“To make sure,” in Kriss’s words, “diners are happy every time they
come through the door.”
Frank Parhizgar’s entry into the kitchen was non-traditional: at 17,
the Iran-born chef was competing for Canada in the 400-metre
hurdles on the European track circuit. He would often fly home
between his training sessions overseas, but one summer decided
to stay on the continent and find work. Equipped with zero kitchen
skills but unwavering persistence, Parhizgar sought a job at a majestic
two Michelin star restaurant in Lyon, France. Initially it was the
property’s rolling hills that attracted him (they were good for running,
of course), but the soon-to-be cook quickly discovered that his
prowess at performing with speed and precision under stress was
a valued quality in the intense kitchen.
The tasting menu–only Alo is one of the city’s newest and most
stunning restaurants; it’s also shaking up the refined dining scene.
Beautiful French cuisine is delivered with finesse, in a pretense- and
tablecloth-free environment. Guests are warmly welcomed from the
moment they step out of the elevator doors and into the third-floor
space. Past the sleek, sophisticated front-of-house Bar Alo lies a central
open kitchen with guests enjoying an extended tasting experience
at kitchen-counter seats. The elevated dining room follows, and boasts
a 180-degree view of the street-level bustle below.
Those who know Kriss know that Alo is the culmination of the
hard-working chef ’s drive, meticulousness, and a focus on deliciousness
that’s highly praised by the culinary community.
“He’s a force to be reckoned with,” says Victor Barry, chef and
owner of Splendido, where Kriss once worked as chef de cuisine. “His
pedigree is great, but I really think it’s Patrick’s quest for greatness that
will make Alo one of the best in the city, guaranteed.”
Excelling seems to come naturally to Kriss, who was a York University
history graduate, Taekwondo competitor, and hockey coach before he
embraced the heat and intensity of the professional kitchen. Patrick’s
ability to handle pressure saw him rise quickly through the ranks:
in 2006 he represented Canada in the San Pellegrino Young Chef
Competition, and then spent three years cooking under the legendary
Daniel Boulud at his flagship New York restaurant.
“Frank is the most ambitious person I’ve met,” says Shawn
Cooper, Parhizar’s wife and front-of-house manager at his Toronto
restaurant, Frank’s Kitchen, “I’ve never seen somebody so driven;
and that’s just his background and who he is—somebody who’s
an athlete is going to be that way. It’s all about excellence.”
Parhizgar’s move to a kitchen brigade was a natural transition:
his unfamiliarity with its hierarchical structure, his drive, and
his ability to conquer even the most laborious task by turning
it into an exercise (large sacks of potatoes became the load for his
weighted squats), made him a valuable team member upon his
return to North America, where, among other things, he worked
as executive chef for Marc Thuet’s Toronto properties. Now the
proprietor of his own 50-seat restaurant, the chef has transformed
a casual corner of Little Italy into a fine-dining destination.
The prospects for Alo, the chef ’s own space, appear equally bright.
To quote Splendido’s Barry: “Patrick’s [restaurant] is going to be the best.”
Five years on, Parhizgar is still impressing guests and critics
alike with his attention to the smallest of details. He serves
his dynamic and evolving dishes—influenced by the from-theground-up cooking styles typical of classic France and Italy—
against an approachable neighbourhood backdrop complete
with warm and attentive service, complimentary house-made
bread, amuse bouche, and petit fours. His value-driven,
22-course tasting menu (available Sunday to Thursday only)
is a must for all food lovers seeking a marriage of Old World
charm and contemporary finesse.
Alo, 163 Spadina Ave., 3rd floor, 416-260-2222; alorestaurant.com
Frank’s Kitchen, 588 College St., 416-516-5861
Kriss’s homecoming tenure has included stints not only at Splendido,
but also at now-shuttered Acadia, where critics praised his polished
takes on East Coast and South Carolina Lowcountry flavours.
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